At around 6:15 Eric screwed in his fins and told me he was going to take another 10-15 minutes watching the waves to get a feel for how they were breaking before going out. I told him that was good idea and that I would meet him at the beach after going to the bathroom. However, by the time I made it out to the beach Eric was already at the top of the reef break! Afterward, he told me that he had only been watching for a couple of minutes, when he saw a lull in the sets. He said he realized that this might be his only opportunity to get out so he started paddling before he even realized what he was doing. The waves were consistently double over head, so it was good that he went out when he did. Eric was one of only 4 people out, and of course he was sitting the deepest, as he always does. After being out for about 15 minutes, Eric caught his first wave. It was at least twice his height, and I think it was probably the biggest wave he has ever caught. He caught a pretty long ride before the wave closed out and he jumped out the back. He caught two more good waves over the course of the next hour and then road one into the shore.
In addition to the surf, we have had a great time exploring the town of Todos Santos. One evening we went down the beach a few miles to see baby Olive Ridley turtles released from a turtle sanctuary. Another afternoon we explored the art galleries in town. We noticed a painting that looked like one of our home breaks in Santa Barbara, and after talking to the gallery owner, we learned that picture was actually painted by an artist who splits time between Mexico and Santa Barbara.
The people in Todos Santos are very friendly – but they don’t want their town to become another version of Cabo. To prevent this, the town is really focusing on its local food, art, and music. There is a great organic farm within walking distance of the downtown area. The Hotel California (as in the Eagles song) is also located here, and on Friday night we saw a live music concert in the courtyard of the Hotel California! All in all, we were happy to share time in Todos Santos, and we hope that the town is able to continue to follow a sustainable model into the future.